CIENFUEGOS, Cuba — I can't choose which moment stands out most. Maybe it was in Cienfuegos, when Mary showed me dozens of photos from her recent trip to visit friends in Florida, smiling and laughing at the fond recollections
Perhaps it was when Maritza's daughter sat me down and gave me her favorite Havana tips. Or maybe it was when, after half an hour of casual conversation with Maritza and a visiting couple from Argentina, I had to finally pry myself away to do some work
In each instance, I had the same thought: This is so much cooler than a hotel.
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